Here (came) the sun

(written sunday night)

Fall is in full swing, and it takes my breath away. Unlike most of our time here so far, the weather has been so beautiful this week (Monday through Sunday) that I’ve just found it far too difficult to be inside and write anything. Every day has been (at least mostly) sunny and on the whole surprisingly warm, so warm earlier in the week that I was walking around outside in shirtsleeves, no jacket. Besides the beautiful weather, its so stunning to be outside viewing the changing leaves that I’ve just had to go out every day for at least a walk around the University. I’m not sure that I’ve ever been so impressed with nature. The sheer variation in color, from green to lime to a greenish yellow, then from light yellow full to gold and red and brown… there is absolutely no way that I can describe all of them. But they are all glorious, and there are piles of leaves on the ground, and they are swept through the air and it is completely fantastic. The fact that its fleeting makes it all the more precious- not just the leaves but the weather, too; I wake up every morning thinking ‘its probably going to be overcast today’ and have been pleasantly surprised every time.

I also suspect that fall might be one of the favorite times in Russia. People here always seem fond of walking, but lately so many people have been out, and not just out but gathering leaves - people walk around with great handfuls of them, and make hats out of them for little girls, or more like massive crowns of leaves that are bigger than their daughters’ heads- sitting on benches, eating nuts out of brown paper cones, laughing, and taking many, many pictures. Everything just seems festive, and for good reason. Also, the usual ‘do not walk on the grass’ rule is relaxed right now for most people, although Ashley and I did get yelled at by a strict babushka who probably considered it her civic duty to keep the grass pristine.

Because the weather has been so nice, I really haven’t been doing much other than walk around and enjoy it, although really that’s rather a lot. Monday Ashley and I went downtown to draw the Bronze Horseman, then warmed our cold fingers with hot tea from an adorable café she discovered. Tuesday I explored a new metro stop just in the city that is surrounded by loads and loads of cafes, then went with a friend to the Summer Gardens. I also took lots of pictures, and somehow my camera broke. Wednesday I went to the market again downtown, and walked around that area. Thursday was more of a rest day, our area again, and Friday was the same until we went out that night and beforehand Ashley and I went to a shady café/bistro in our area where food is priced by the 100g (quite common in Russia, it seems). Saturday I chose not to go on our arranged excursion to the political history museum – I figured that I should probably learn something about the history before visiting the museum – and instead Ashley and I metro-ed downtown, spent hours walking around and sitting in the Summer Gardens drawing, then walked around more and finally back to the dorms. From downtown. It took exactly two hours from the far side of Liteny Bridge, and it was incredibly interesting, moving from St. Petersburg proper our into its older suburbs and then to the more modern (Soviet) part of town. It was really lovely, and we were walk. It really was just too nice outside to take the Metro back. So there has been much walking.

A few words more about the Summer Gardens, since they are worth describing and probably me revisiting them in the next week before fall is over. They were originally designed for Peter the Great and were apparently quite miraculous, containing a labyrinth among other things, but are quite different now. Currently they contain mainly trees and statues, with some landscaping, but the statues are all beautiful and white and very numerous. The two times I’ve been there a xylophonist has been playing, and the sound drifts through the trees in a very lovely way, especially as the source is mainly hidden. I must say, the Russian style of park with minimal landscaping, lots of trees and grass with some flowers is really beautiful and relaxing. Its not too rigid.

At the moment I am sitting in my homestay, having moved in earlier today with Anna. Its always weird to be living in someone else’s house, but I think I’ll adjust soon. I’ve done a little exploring, and the neighborhood around here is very interesting and – I assume – very Russian. Unlike closer to the university, it really is a residential area, complete with two second hand stores, fruit ‘stands’ –more like boxes- a few supermarkets, an assortment of other stores and lots and lots of apartments. The apartments are invariably surrounded by wildish greenery, or rather any space between apartment buildings is taken up by greenery and play areas for children, with the occasional dumpster. I very much enjoy wandering between them, although you could probably get lost because they cover large areas this way, most area between major roads it seems. I consider this a good thing. I also found a book (on a dumpster, but it seems that people leave stuff they think others may want on top, rather than inside, sort of like a ‘free’ box) that is ‘Russian Folklore’, including sayings and riddles such as ‘five storehouses, one door’. The solution: a glove. I am very pleased.

There’s more to reflect upon re: Russian culture and habits, but that will be next time. Fall deserved its far share of attention, although I’m sure that I’ve failed to do it justice. Simply looking outside makes me happy.