Here (came) the sun

(written sunday night)

Fall is in full swing, and it takes my breath away. Unlike most of our time here so far, the weather has been so beautiful this week (Monday through Sunday) that I’ve just found it far too difficult to be inside and write anything. Every day has been (at least mostly) sunny and on the whole surprisingly warm, so warm earlier in the week that I was walking around outside in shirtsleeves, no jacket. Besides the beautiful weather, its so stunning to be outside viewing the changing leaves that I’ve just had to go out every day for at least a walk around the University. I’m not sure that I’ve ever been so impressed with nature. The sheer variation in color, from green to lime to a greenish yellow, then from light yellow full to gold and red and brown… there is absolutely no way that I can describe all of them. But they are all glorious, and there are piles of leaves on the ground, and they are swept through the air and it is completely fantastic. The fact that its fleeting makes it all the more precious- not just the leaves but the weather, too; I wake up every morning thinking ‘its probably going to be overcast today’ and have been pleasantly surprised every time.

I also suspect that fall might be one of the favorite times in Russia. People here always seem fond of walking, but lately so many people have been out, and not just out but gathering leaves - people walk around with great handfuls of them, and make hats out of them for little girls, or more like massive crowns of leaves that are bigger than their daughters’ heads- sitting on benches, eating nuts out of brown paper cones, laughing, and taking many, many pictures. Everything just seems festive, and for good reason. Also, the usual ‘do not walk on the grass’ rule is relaxed right now for most people, although Ashley and I did get yelled at by a strict babushka who probably considered it her civic duty to keep the grass pristine.

Because the weather has been so nice, I really haven’t been doing much other than walk around and enjoy it, although really that’s rather a lot. Monday Ashley and I went downtown to draw the Bronze Horseman, then warmed our cold fingers with hot tea from an adorable café she discovered. Tuesday I explored a new metro stop just in the city that is surrounded by loads and loads of cafes, then went with a friend to the Summer Gardens. I also took lots of pictures, and somehow my camera broke. Wednesday I went to the market again downtown, and walked around that area. Thursday was more of a rest day, our area again, and Friday was the same until we went out that night and beforehand Ashley and I went to a shady café/bistro in our area where food is priced by the 100g (quite common in Russia, it seems). Saturday I chose not to go on our arranged excursion to the political history museum – I figured that I should probably learn something about the history before visiting the museum – and instead Ashley and I metro-ed downtown, spent hours walking around and sitting in the Summer Gardens drawing, then walked around more and finally back to the dorms. From downtown. It took exactly two hours from the far side of Liteny Bridge, and it was incredibly interesting, moving from St. Petersburg proper our into its older suburbs and then to the more modern (Soviet) part of town. It was really lovely, and we were walk. It really was just too nice outside to take the Metro back. So there has been much walking.

A few words more about the Summer Gardens, since they are worth describing and probably me revisiting them in the next week before fall is over. They were originally designed for Peter the Great and were apparently quite miraculous, containing a labyrinth among other things, but are quite different now. Currently they contain mainly trees and statues, with some landscaping, but the statues are all beautiful and white and very numerous. The two times I’ve been there a xylophonist has been playing, and the sound drifts through the trees in a very lovely way, especially as the source is mainly hidden. I must say, the Russian style of park with minimal landscaping, lots of trees and grass with some flowers is really beautiful and relaxing. Its not too rigid.

At the moment I am sitting in my homestay, having moved in earlier today with Anna. Its always weird to be living in someone else’s house, but I think I’ll adjust soon. I’ve done a little exploring, and the neighborhood around here is very interesting and – I assume – very Russian. Unlike closer to the university, it really is a residential area, complete with two second hand stores, fruit ‘stands’ –more like boxes- a few supermarkets, an assortment of other stores and lots and lots of apartments. The apartments are invariably surrounded by wildish greenery, or rather any space between apartment buildings is taken up by greenery and play areas for children, with the occasional dumpster. I very much enjoy wandering between them, although you could probably get lost because they cover large areas this way, most area between major roads it seems. I consider this a good thing. I also found a book (on a dumpster, but it seems that people leave stuff they think others may want on top, rather than inside, sort of like a ‘free’ box) that is ‘Russian Folklore’, including sayings and riddles such as ‘five storehouses, one door’. The solution: a glove. I am very pleased.

There’s more to reflect upon re: Russian culture and habits, but that will be next time. Fall deserved its far share of attention, although I’m sure that I’ve failed to do it justice. Simply looking outside makes me happy.

Good times, good times

I mentioned last time that I was going to go see Swan Lake at the Hermitage- and it was utterly fantastic. When the prima ballerina was dancing the part of Giselle, I think I might have stopped breathing during parts of it. Also, a French man I talked to told me that it was better than the ballet in Paris (although he did point out that the ballet was founded by a Frenchman- of course). Besides the incredible dancing, the entire production was incredible- sets, costumes, music. It was very much a feast for the senses, and at close quarters. The theater that it was performed in was built by Catherine the Great as a new wing to the Winter Palace (now the Hermitage, named after a specific part of the building that she used to house her personal collection) to put on intimate productions for the nobility or whoever could afford seats. Its so informal that there are no seat numbers, and I believe it houses less than one hundred people, so you're inevitably incredibly close to the stage. It really was magical, and I can wait to go back. Besides, I think volunteering at the Hermitage is the most sweet deal I think that I've ever come across. All we needed to do was arrive half an hour early and inform guests that they should check their coats, then stand outside during intermission to let them know where the toilets, cafe, etc. are located. And we get to see the entire production for free.

Still haven't heard about doing Archaeology though- still hoping.

On friday Jane and I took an exciting trip to the Museum of Religion, one of the many museums in St. Petersburg and a very exciting one. We initially thought that it was a ridiculously small place, because one side of it is only three rooms, but it turned out to be three floors, one full and two smaller. We primarily wanted to go for the Orthodox icons, and they really were worth it. Besides the standard painted and gilded ones, there is a room of more precious icons and paraphanelia (mainly icons) that you must ask to be unlocked. Let me tell you, that was a fun conversation to figure out in Russian, something like:
Me: is it closed?
Caretaker: do you want to go in?
Me:.... yes?
Caretaker gets up and disappears to get guard. Jane and I stand confused until she returns.
I nicknamed it 'the vault'. There were some incredibly beautiful and ornate icons, definitely worth the awkward conversation. Eastern Orthodox art really is beautiful, almost middle eastern at times (or should I say, Byzantinian?), and some very haunting portraits. The rest of the exhibits were also fascinating, including one on Islam and a Buddhist sculpture that one of the caretakers nearly forced us to go to.

Our excursion this saturday was to the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is the old nucleus of St Petersburg (actually, it used to be all of St. Petersburg but as the city expanded it became more of a seperate fortification and was actually renamed). It contains the beginnings of the city and a museum on that subject (which we visited- so much culture in just two days!), and the cathedral containing the remains of the tsars. The cathedral itself was designed by Peter the Great and attests again to his desire to Europify Russia, since it looks like a Catholic, not Orthodox, cathedral. Or, as Ashley put it, 'as if French and Italian architecture had a baby, and it was a cathedral'. Somewhat bizarre, but historically interesting.
Later in the afternoon Ashley and I went to the Russian cafe chain 'tea spoon' and had some really amazing loose leaf tea- I think I've found my new favorite Russian chain. Which reminds me to mention Teremok, the other amazing one that is scrumptious and has blini stands all over the city. Brilliant. Tasty, cheap, and ready to go! At 'Tea Spoon' (chainaya lojka) we also did homework, before a random guy tried to help us in broken English and later told Ashley that he loved her as we left. A little awkward.
Saturday night we went out all night, which was interesting. The metro closes at 12 (Cinderella, anyone?) and opens at 6, so if you don't want to catch a taxi you are out literally all night- the sun was coming up as we headed in. It was actually very fun, and we spent a good deal of the night at a nice relaxing cafe/bar where our waiter was Polish and happened to know some English. She was lovely, and in Russia they don't kick you our for loitering- which we were basically doing.

Generally, really, Russia is sort of a 'live and let live' society, in the sense that people generally don't interfer. As my friend Josh was saying, it would be a good place to push boundaries because until you really did something crazy, probably no one would say anything. Like if you happened to make out on the Metro, like many Russian couples.
On the other hand, one of the gay bars in the city got raided a weekend or two ago- and most people had their pictures taken and names taken down, all under the name of investigating a murder in Moscow, where the victim had the name of the club written down on a piece of paper on his person. Sketchy, to say the least. So its not all live and let live (white supremacy is also on the rise). Its a fascinating place, really.

More on that later- I'm still sorting out my thoughts, working toward some sort of coherent idea.

And the leaves are starting to change- I'm incredibly excited for my first real autumn. It will be glorious.

Eto Roccia!

Please pardon the crazy looking title; its my crazy attempt to spell the Russian words for 'that's Russia!', the phrase which can probably best encompass our trip. Anything strange? Weird things happening? Well guess what- that's Russia.


There have been a few exciting occurences over the past couple of days. On sunday a few of us went to the market (reenok) with our 'Russian contact', Misha, who is totally awesome. He took us to the sketchy market in the middle of St. Petersburg where pick-pocketing is rife (my friend actually felt someone reach into her back pocket) and all goods are made in and probably shaddily imported from China. It is awesome, and I will definitely return to get some ridiculous Russian shiny black shoes. Then I will have truly assimilated.
On monday we threw Misha an American-style birthday party, with cake, ice cream and, well, vodka. That last one was more Russia-inspired. I attempted a cake from, ironically, the 'Russian cuisine for Kiwis' website that I thought sounded like the cake Misha described to me as his favorite. It turned out okay - despite using the 'crazy Soviet oven' that is always way too hot and angry'- but not anything like he apparently meant. Still, good times, and he said that he's never had a birthday like it. Brilliant.

On tuesday we relaxed, and Ashley and I watched 'Enchanted' in Russian on a sketchy disk that had the Russian dubbed OVER English, so we got a bit of both.

Yesterday, wednesday, was AWESOME though. We went to the Hermitage to do more volunteering things, and it sounds like I probably will be able to do some Archaeology work. Then I ate ice cream in the street even though it was maybe 10 C, just like a real Russian. And after getting back, I met and went to dinner at the house of my future host family.
It was awesome. The family consists of Tatiana and her son Kiril, who is 14 and a little shy but cool, although harder to understand because his voice is breaking- poor teenager. Tatiana works as a tour guide in St. Petersburg during the year, and then during the summer (or at least last summer) worked in either Turkey or Ukraine. Talk about sweet. She made lasagna and apple cake for dinner, accompanied but cups of (loose-leaf!) tea, and it was glorious. She has a beautiful, albeit not very large kitchen that has real gas burners instead of hot plates, which made me very happy, and a washing machine so I won't have to take all my laundry to school to get it done. The apartment is about a 20 minute walk from school, along a beautiful tree-lined street (the name of the street is 'faithfulness') that is going to be completely glorious in the fall. I am very much looking forward to it.
Tatiana really is lovely, and she speaks just enough English to explain to us what we don't know, but to otherwise speak in Russian. I am incredibly excited- I think my comprehension and speaking got better in just that evening, because unlike class its completely random what we talk about, and I actually have to say things. Its brilliant.

And tonight, off to the Hermitage to volunteer at Swan Lake!

Finally, quote of the week:

Me: what's the word for 'excited'?
Jane: I don't think that word exists in Russian.

(note: I'm sure it does, but its a little hard to believe when everyone walks around looking so dour or at the very least stoic. We call it 'the Russian face', e.g. in the usage 'I have my Russian face on today')

The Oldest City in the Russian Federation

Yesterday we visited Novgorod, the oldest city in Russia, founded in 859. It was incredible.

That's the short story. The long is, strangely, longer. It took about three hours to get there both ways, which was a little unfortunate but since pretty much everyone slept on the bus it was mainly just a little uncomfortable. When we got there it was even colder than in St. Petersburg, meaning that even with a long-sleeved shirt, sweater and jacket plus gloves I was not exactly toasty. Oh, and its only September. But its farther south, and the sea breezes keep Petersburg both cold and warmer than a lot of Russia. Anyway, after a short break we entered the Kremlin, or core of the old city surrounded by talk brick walls and towers. Its other name, before they adopted Kremlin from the name of the Mockow fortress was something like 'detani' and meant -approximately- 'womb'.

Besides being the oldest city, Novgorod was also the first capitol of Russia and the site for many fascinating occurences. The oldest cathedral in Russia stands in Novgorod, St. Catherine's, where during a recent excavation they found graffiti on the walls that included one that went something like "man, service was boring today!"- the guide said that the inscription was very popular during Soviet times. And it had the first school as well, founded around 1074. The most remarkable thing about this school is that since its founding ALL children were sent to it, resulting in a 90% literacy rate for Novgorod in the middle ages. Yes, the middle ages. For women as well. That is ridiculous. In addition to St. Catherine's it has about 30 or 40 other churches, the only ones that remain of more than 100 before WWII, during which it suffered greatly, also losing something like 80,000 of its population. Now alot of the churches are museums, some with incredible frescoes from, you know, the middle ages again.

Yes, I know I'm a history nerd but it was all very exciting. They also have a beach at Novgorod on the river that flows past, and when it got sunny later in the day I could almost imagine going to the beach in Russia. Apparently its quite popular in summer. And I mean, at that point it was so warm that I was only wearing my sweater instead of the sweater and jacket, so it had possibilities.
If you like frostbite.

The day before this excursion was my birthday, which was also exciting. Yay, birthday in Russia! It started fantastically, since my friend Ashley came in slightly after midnight to give me roses- I felt very Russian. The next day I had all three of my elective classes (they unfortunately all fall on friday, which is pure evil), so I got off about four. We then attempted to find a second hand shop that did not exist, before coming home to eat before going out. I recieved more roses upon my return, which made the day even better since my friend Josh thought that my bouquet of 5 (not 6- you don't give bouquets of even numbers in Russia) looked sad. I had to take one out to make 9 since 5 +5 equals an even number, and they are all still beautiful. Russians certainly get the flower thing right, its awesome.
In the evening we went out to a club called 'dasha' (country/summer cabin) and danced to really really good, sort of old-school music. I tried out my Russian on a poor unsuspecting Russian lad that we forced into dancing since he was standing by himself- it was hard to hear but I think he might have said 'your Russian isn't very good'. Or maybe 'your Russian is good'? Probably the former, but I wouldn't want to have to deal with me either. Especially after a very large beer.

Then we came back to the dorms and ate cake. And in the morning, Novgorod! A very successful birthday.

Today I went with some people to exciting, cheap Russian markets. Mmmm, cheap. I think I will go buy Russian shoes there- black, with heels. And then I might actually fit in.

St. Petersburg continues to astonish and impress, although I currently have a head cold. Everyone's getting sick, so this week looks to be quiet. Probably a good thing. Oh, Russia!

A Very Successful Day

So, today was awesome.

Usually in Russia I've been feeling somewhat out of the loop- its far too easy to feel isolated when you can't have a normal conversation with people on the street (if they would talk to a stranger, which I'm not sure about), or in the shops, or really anywhere because of the language barrier. It really tends to be not so very much fun. Today, however, I had a number of successful interactions and damn did it make me feel good.

First, there was the post office. Not only did Jane (my roommate) and I manage to actually get stamps, but I also understood pretty much everything that anyone said to me, like the woman who asked the price of a magazine in front of me. Who knew sending mail would be so exciting?

Second, we went to the phone store and I bought a Russian SIM card. Yes, I did. Without someone fluent to help me. Sure, there were some awkward moments and a little incomprehension, but I did the damn thing, and I have it. My phone doesn't seem to want to accept it, but at least I officially have a Russian number!

Then, I found the most amazing cup in the world- it has a built-in strainer for tea and a top. It is incredible. And a whisk, and a small paring knife. Slowly but surely our pathetic hotplate kitchen is becoming remotely up to scratch. I also found everything I wanted at the grocery store, although admittedly I thought the potato starch was potato seasoning. Still, a triumph nonetheless.

I also got new sheets for my bed, and change from the kiosk woman to do laundry, which is currently in the doing.

And all those interactions were in Russian!!

Its really kind of bizarre when completely normal interactions in the States are incredible feats in Russia. Doing so many useful things in a day would be lovely, but not exactly exciting.

Russia continues to be awesome, with the added awesomeness of a harvest moon last night when we went downtown- the rising of the moon between two buildings viewed down a canal, with the light of the moon and lamps reflecting in the water was breathtaking. At the same time, there are very distinct contrasts, for example between the loveliness of the water and the trash floating on it. Its ridiculous.

I 'm slipping on the vegetarianism- in the interest of new taste sensations, and it just being one more thing to worry about in a foreign country.

fountains!

A few exciting things have happened in the last couple of days. On friday we spent some time at the US Consulate, being told what to and not to do in Russia (DON'T get into Gypsy cabs! DO watch your wallet at all times!), most of which consisted of not exactly new information. Still, it was interesting and made me more interested in working for the state department- although then again that would still neccesitate working for the American government. And he did emphasize that you then MUST publicly support the foreign policy, which may well be difficult.

After the Consulate, all the people who were interested in volunteering at the Hermitage went over to the museum and signed up- myself included. I think that it will be the most amazing work experience ever. Volunteering possibly with the Theater or doing Archaeology at the biggest art museum in the world. Awesome! I also wondered around with my friend ashley and took pictures and enjoyed the city. It was all good times.

On Saturday we went to Peterhof, the summer palace of Peter the Great (who was 6'8"! The largest man of his time! No wonder they called him 'the Great'. Actually, I'm not quite sure if there was any other reason) which is surprisingly designed in the Dutch style, since he hated Russian culture to the extreme of going around and cutting off the long, traditional beards of men with anything he had on hand, even an axe. Yes, an axe.
But back to the palace, it is sometimes known as the palaces of fountains because there are 185, all gravity-run, in the grounds. And these aren't just your run of the mill fountains either- they include such features and circling ducks and giant dragons perched on top of checkerboard-patterned layers. The lands end at and the palace looks our over the Finnish gulf, which is quite a sight. In the very distance you can also see St. Petersburg as a thin line where the water meets the sky. It was quite incredible. On the way back, gazing out the windows of the bus, I had my first feelings of great fondness for Russia.

Today everyone slept in and then did some lazy shopping- less of a really Russian day. I am getting a little tired of feeling like an idiot when I try to talk to people, but I'm sure it gradually gets better as I'll be able to/more used to talking. And the weather doesn't feel nearly as cold anymore! I love adjusting.

And by the way, Russians love shoes just as much as flowers. They're quite the thing.

Russia in full

Classes have started, and its incredibly nice to be studying Russian in Russian, especially at the intensity (three hours a day) that we are. Not only can I feel my mind expanding- quite literally- but its actually applicable. Walking around and reading signs is so much more entertaining, because when you figure them out or just sound out the cyrillic its frankly rewarding. But more about St. Petersburg itself.

We travelled to the Hermitage yesterday, and had a short tour around part of the museum- its incredibly large so a small part of it still took two hours. With our Russian student IDs we get in free, so I plan to spend multiple days/evenings exploring the collections. Its also one of the most beautiful buildings I've ever been in, both the Winter Palace and the 'new hermitage' built as a museum in (I believe) the 19th century by Nicholas I, and each room is like its own work of art. The inlaid floors alone are worth visiting the museum- often as ornate as the surrounding art, and made with multiple kinds and colors of wood. Unfotunately we did get yelled at for touching something that we didn't touch by a scary old lady working there, but what can you do. The protectresses of the art are fierce, but that's true the world over.

Just walking around downtown Petersburg is breathtaking, especially in the evening in lower light. Yesterday during golden hour the sky was partly sunny (it was also the warmest day we've had in a while, actually too warm for a jacket and the first time I have contemplated eating the famous Russian ice cream), and the colors of the buildings were stunning. They have such beautiful colors on the buildings here, probably as a result of the somewhat dour surroundings and unfriendly weather. If your surroundings are grey, you may as well paint everything yellow, red, green, or something equally cheery, and that seems to be pretty much the case. You can also turn corners and stumble across points of historic or cultural interest- I walked down a street that happened to have two theaters and a traditional tea house, then turned down a few more to stumble upon the Dostoevsky museum and a church.

Its becoming more and more clear what Russian culture really means. Everyone seems to wear a lot of black and/or really shiny things, especially the women. We all tend to feel quite underdressed and confused by the smallness of many styles that women are sporting- it will be interesting to see what happens when the weather gets colder. We learned a phrase in Russian today that means 'beauty demands a victim' which seems particularly apt. It also seems that to avoid standing out means not smiling as much and definitely not at strangers, and to talk at a lower volume- although the last is true for Americans all over the world. I'm sure other, more subtle aspects will come out over time.

And tonight we're taking a 'Jazz boat' cruise on the Neva!

First Days

Russia!

We arrived, sleep-deprived, on a plane at about 3pm on Saturday. It rained on and off all day, which apparently Russians call “mushroom rain” because its the sort of weather where they pop up. It was interesting and new after being in dry California all summer, but not appreciated while waiting outside for the bus. We drove from the airport, sounding out the surrounding Cyrillic writing and become extremely excited upon recognizing words. Our university and dorms are NOT where I thought they where, near the center of town, but in fact happen to be quite far north from the center city, in a residential district (there’s a Russian word for it that I can’t recall, but which I think basically means a-place-where-people-only-sleep). Thus, first impressions where not the greatest, although its still old and fascinatingly industrial. The view from my window encompasses a vast amount of power lines and conductors, which are actually stunning. The rest of the night was spent settling in, unpacking etc. My roommate also happens to have a twin, and is from Alaska. She is awesome. We did some walking later, and completely passed for Russians. Or thought we did.

On Sunday, we went to real St. Petersburg which is incredibly stunning, certainly worthy of the name “Venice of the North”. The buildings in the main downtown were all built around the founding of the city, and their facades march elegantly down the Neva and its artificial canals, painted in surprisingly bright colors like gold-yellow, brick and light green. I really can’t describe it at all, but it really is fantastic. I can’t wait to explore all the canals and interconnecting streets, which are surprisingly wide and un Europe-like since St.. Petersburg was planned as the capital.
Our tour included many cathedrals, palaces, and more specific sights like the Aurora, a retired battleship whose shot signaled the beginning of the Revolution back in 1917, and we passed a museum of ethnography which also houses Peter the Great’s collection of mutants (two-headed babies and the like) pickled in brine. St. Petersburg has over a hundred museums. Over ONE HUNDRED. These include such treasures as the museums of bread, chocolate and vodka. And of course, it apparently would take 9 years to get through the Hermitage.
Later we took pictures for our legal papers that we MUST have at all times since the Police always have the right to ask for them. Then our first shopping, where we discovered that the cashiers hate breaking large bills as we were all harassed. Unfortunately, ATMs don’t give change, but we don’t quite know how to explain that yet.

Today, the first day of school, we went to class and were told about all our classes, then took the Russian placement test- its remarkable how much one can forget in a fairly short period of time. Afterwards we had the afternoon free, and I went downtown with a friend on the Metro (about a twenty minute ride). Their Metro is beautiful! Built mainly in the fifties, both the stations and the trains are wide and well decorated, with lovely details like lamps in the trains that look like they’re from somewhere between the twenties and the forties. They are incredibly deep as well- I’ve never ridden such a long elevator. Coming up into St. Petersburg on the surprisingly sunny day was magical, emerging into Nevsky Prospect (the main boulevard) amid rushing Russians (sorry, not funny), and simply walking around in a lazy search for a watch. The problem with having such old buildings, actually, is that they don’t have storefronts, so its quite difficult to tell what they in fact sell. Wandering was really lovely, however, which included buying bread from a lovely vendor who asked us where we were from and told us to come back again. Its so incredibly satisfying to just interact and buy things successfully! We also found a market by lucky chance that is a cross between a farmers’ and flea market, which I am totally going to return to. Fresh fruit and veges, here I come! Although our food that we’ve had is really quite good.

And randomly, it has become evident that Russians love flowers- there are stalls everywhere!